NVQ Diploma in Bricklaying (Construction) Decorative, Curved and Specialist Masonry Syllabus

Decorative, Curved and Specialist Masonry syllabus — full chapter and topic list

Expand any chapter to see its topics and sub-topics. This is the whole examinable outline for Decorative, Curved and Specialist Masonry in NVQ Diploma in Bricklaying (Construction), not a summary of it.

1. 1

   Jointing, Pointing and Finishing

   4 topics

   • Joint profiles: bucket-handle, weathered, flush and recessed
   • Timing the joint-up and matching colour
   • Tooling, ironing and brushing off
   • Pointing existing brickwork and raking out
2. 2

   Arches and Curved Work

   4 topics

   • Arch terminology and components
     • Springer, voussoir, keystone, soffit and extrados
   • Constructing turning pieces and centres (formers)
   • Building semicircular and segmental arches
   • Setting out and building radial (curved) walls
     • Trammel and template methods
3. 3

   Decorative and Feature Brickwork

   4 topics

   • Brick-on-edge and brick-on-end copings and sills
   • Corbelling, dentil courses and string courses
   • Diaper and polychromatic patterned panels
   • Feature panels and soldier courses
4. 4

   Chimneys, Fireplaces and Flues

   4 topics

   • Constructing chimney breasts and stacks
   • Flue liners, gathers and offsets
   • Forming fireplace openings and hearths
   • Weathering, flashing and chimney capping

Decorative, Curved and Specialist Masonry flashcards for NVQ Diploma in Bricklaying (Construction)

25 of 54 cards from the Decorative, Curved and Specialist Masonry deck — real questions with worked answers.

1. What is a bucket-handle (concave) joint and how is it formed?

   A concave mortar joint formed by drawing a rounded tool (traditionally a bucket handle, or a jointing iron/round bar) along the joint. It compresses and seals the mortar, sheds water well and is one of the most weather-resistant and popular profiles in the UK.

2. Describe the weathered (struck) joint and its main advantage.

   A sloping joint pressed in at the top and left flush/projecting at the bottom so the mortar slopes outward and downward. The angled face throws rainwater clear of the joint below, giving excellent weather resistance — ideal for exposed elevations.

3. What is a flush joint and when is it used?

   A joint finished level (flush) with the face of the brickwork, usually by cutting off surplus mortar with the trowel and lightly rubbing. Used for rustic/textured bricks and where a plain, uniform appearance is wanted; offers moderate weather resistance.

4. What is a recessed joint and what is its key disadvantage?

   A joint raked back a uniform depth (about 6 mm) and squared off with a chariot/recessing tool, leaving the brick arrises proud for strong shadow lines. Its disadvantage is poor weather resistance, since water can collect on the exposed bed ledge — unsuitable for exposed positions.

5. Rank bucket-handle, weathered, flush and recessed joints by weather resistance.

   Weathered and bucket-handle give the best weather resistance (mortar compressed and water shed). Flush is moderate. Recessed is the poorest because it exposes ledges that hold water — avoid on exposed elevations.

6. Why is correct timing critical when jointing up brickwork?

   The mortar must have stiffened to a 'thumb-print hard' state — firm enough to hold its shape but still workable. Too soon and the mortar smears and slumps; too late and it will not compress or burnish, giving a weak, poorly sealed joint of inconsistent colour.

7. How do you test whether mortar is ready to be jointed up?

   Press a thumb into the joint: when the mortar holds the impression without being wet/sticky and does not crumble, it is at the right stiffness ('thumb-print hard') for tooling.

8. What two factors most affect mortar joint colour, and how do you keep colour consistent?

   Water/cement ratio and timing of tooling (plus consistent sand, batching and curing). Keep gauging consistent, batch by gauge/weight, joint each area at the same stiffness, and avoid over-wetting — which lightens/streaks the joint.

9. What is the correct sequence: jointing, then brushing off?

   Joint (tool) the bed and perpend joints first while mortar is thumb-print hard, then once the tooled mortar has firmed slightly, brush off the small burrs and surplus with a soft hand brush. Brushing too early drags wet mortar across the face and stains it.

10. In what order should vertical and horizontal (perp and bed) joints be tooled, and why?

    Tool the perpends (vertical joints) first, then the bed (horizontal) joints. Finishing the long horizontal joints last gives a continuous, neat top line and removes any tags left where the perpends meet the beds.

11. What is 'ironing in' a joint?

    Running a jointing iron (round bar/half-round tool) along the joint to compress and burnish the mortar, producing the concave (bucket-handle) profile, a dense water-shedding surface and an even colour.

12. Define pointing as distinct from jointing.

    Jointing finishes the mortar of the original bed joint as the wall is built. Pointing is filling and finishing the face of a joint with fresh mortar after the bed mortar has been raked out — used for new decorative finishes or for repairing/repointing existing brickwork.

13. To what depth is a joint normally raked out before repointing, and why?

    Rake out to roughly twice the joint width (about 10–15 mm), to clean, sound mortar, so the new pointing mortar has enough depth to key and bond. Shallow raking leads to fresh mortar falling out.

14. What precautions ensure good adhesion when repointing existing brickwork?

    Rake out to sound mortar, remove all dust/debris, and lightly dampen the joints before pointing so the dry brickwork does not suck water from the new mortar (which causes weak, crumbly joints). Match mortar mix and colour to the original.

15. List the principal parts of a brick arch.

    Voussoirs (wedge-shaped bricks), keystone (central voussoir), springing points/springers, intrados (soffit), extrados (outer curve), abutments (supports), skewback (for segmental arches), crown, haunch, and the span and rise dimensions.

16. Define span, rise, springing line and crown of an arch.

    Span = horizontal distance between the springing points (the opening width). Rise = vertical height from springing line to the highest point of the intrados. Springing line = level where the curve of the arch begins. Crown = highest point of the arch.

17. What is a voussoir and what is the keystone?

    A voussoir is one of the wedge-shaped (tapered) units forming the ring of an arch. The keystone is the central voussoir at the crown; it is placed last and locks the arch, transferring loads down through the other voussoirs to the abutments.

18. Distinguish the intrados from the extrados.

    The intrados is the inner curve/underside (soffit) of the arch. The extrados is the outer curve of the arch ring (its top edge).

19. What is a skewback and which arch type needs it?

    A skewback is the inclined (splayed) bearing surface cut or built at each abutment from which a segmental arch springs, set perpendicular to the line to the centre of curvature. Segmental (and other non-semicircular) arches need skewbacks; a semicircular arch springs from a level (horizontal) springing.

20. What is a turning piece and when is it used?

    A turning piece is a solid timber former with a curved top (cut from one piece) used to support a flat or shallow segmental arch of small span while it is built. For larger spans or semicircular arches a built-up centre is used instead.

21. What is a centre (former) and what are its main parts?

    A centre is a temporary built-up timber framework supporting an arch during construction. Main parts: ribs (curved profile boards), ties/cross-bearers, struts/laggings (boards across the ribs forming the curved surface the bricks rest on), and folding wedges beneath for striking.

22. Why are folding wedges placed under a centre?

    They allow the centre to be eased and lowered ('struck') gently and evenly after the arch mortar has set, so the arch takes up its load gradually without shock — and they let the centre be removed without damaging the arch.

23. When may an arch centre be struck (removed)?

    Only after the arch mortar has gained sufficient strength to be self-supporting (typically allow the mortar to set/cure — often at least 24 hours or longer in cold conditions). Striking too early can cause the arch to drop or collapse.

24. How do you set out a semicircular arch?

    The radius equals half the span; place the compass/trammel point on the centre of the springing line and strike the semicircle. The rise equals the radius (half the span). Voussoirs are set out radiating from this single centre point with equal taper.

25. How is a segmental arch set out, and how does its centre differ from a semicircular arch?

    A segmental arch is part of a circle whose centre lies below the springing line. The rise is less than half the span, so the radius is larger than for a semicircle and is found by geometry/trammel; voussoirs radiate from that lower centre and the arch springs from inclined skewbacks.

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