Cosmetology License Exam Skin Care, Facials, and Hair Removal Syllabus

List common contraindications to a facial service.

Contagious skin disease/infection, open sores or lesions, sunburn, recent chemical peel or laser, use of Accutane/Retin-A, inflamed/broken skin, uncontrolled diabetes, pregnancy concerns, and known product allergies.

When should a cosmetologist refer a client to a physician instead of treating?

When signs of a possible medical/contagious condition appear—abnormal lesions, suspicious moles, infections, inflammation, undiagnosed rashes, or anything outside the scope of cosmetology. A cosmetologist must never diagnose or treat disease.

What are the three core steps of basic skin care (home care and salon)?

Cleansing (remove dirt, makeup, oil), toning (remove residue, restore pH balance, refresh), and moisturizing (hydrate and protect the skin).

What is the purpose of a toner/astringent, and how do they differ?

Both remove residual cleanser/oil and restore the skin's pH. Toners are mildest (for dry/normal skin); astringents are strongest, often with alcohol, for oily skin to help tighten pores and reduce oil.

Why is moisturizing important even for oily skin?

Moisturizers add or seal in water (hydration) and protect the skin barrier. Oily skin still needs water/hydration; an oil-free or non-comedogenic moisturizer prevents the skin from overproducing oil to compensate for dehydration.

What are the five basic types of massage manipulations (movements)?

Effleurage (light gliding stroking), petrissage (kneading), friction (deep rubbing/circular pressure), tapotement (light tapping/percussion), and vibration (rapid shaking/trembling).

Describe effleurage and when it is used in a facial massage.

Effleurage is a light, continuous gliding/stroking movement applied with the fingers or palms with no pressure. It is used to begin and end a massage because it is relaxing and soothing.

What is petrissage and what is its benefit?

Petrissage is a kneading movement in which the skin and muscles are lifted, squeezed, and pressed. It provides deeper stimulation, improving circulation and gland activity.

What is tapotement and why is it used cautiously on the face?

Tapotement is a percussion/tapping movement (light tapping or slapping). It is the most stimulating massage movement and should be used briefly and gently on the delicate facial tissue.

What is a motor point in facial massage?

A motor point is a point on the skin over a muscle where pressure or stimulation causes that muscle to contract. Knowing motor points lets the cosmetologist relax and stimulate facial muscles effectively.

What is the basic rule for the direction of facial massage movements relative to muscles?

Massage movements should generally be directed from the insertion of the muscle toward its origin (from the more movable attachment toward the fixed attachment) to avoid damaging muscle tissue.

What is the magnifying lamp (loupe) used for in a facial?

The magnifying lamp is used for skin analysis—examining and analyzing the skin and lesions up close. It magnifies the skin so conditions like comedones and texture can be seen clearly.

What does a facial steamer do and what are its benefits?

The steamer produces warm steam that softens the skin and sebum, relaxes tissue, increases circulation, opens follicles, and aids in deep cleansing and easier extraction of comedones.

What precaution should be taken when using a facial steamer?

Use distilled water, keep the steamer about 15–18 inches from the face, protect the eyes, avoid steaming clients with couperose/rosacea or sensitive/sunburned skin too long, and never let water run dry.

What is the difference between exfoliation by mechanical means versus chemical means?

Mechanical (physical) exfoliation physically scrubs away dead cells (scrubs, microdermabrasion, brushing). Chemical exfoliation dissolves dead-cell bonds using acids or enzymes (AHAs, BHAs, enzyme peels).

What is the difference between an AHA and a BHA exfoliant?

AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids, e.g., glycolic, lactic) are water-soluble and exfoliate the skin surface, good for dry/sun-damaged skin. BHAs (beta hydroxy acid, salicylic acid) are oil-soluble, penetrating into pores, ideal for oily/acne-prone skin.

What is an enzyme peel (enzyme mask) and how does it work?

An enzyme peel uses enzymes (often from fruit, e.g., papain from papaya or bromelain from pineapple) to dissolve keratin protein in dead surface cells, providing gentle exfoliation.

What is the purpose of a clay or mud mask versus a gel/cream mask?

Clay/mud masks absorb excess oil, draw out impurities, and tighten/cleanse—best for oily skin. Gel/cream masks hydrate, soothe, and nourish—best for dry, dehydrated, or sensitive skin.

What is a treatment cream/serum, and what is the difference between a serum and a moisturizer?

A serum is a concentrated, low-viscosity product delivering high levels of active ingredients deep into the skin. A moisturizer is heavier and works mainly to hydrate and seal the surface barrier.

How should a facial be adapted for dry skin?

Use gentle, hydrating cleansers; avoid alcohol/astringents; apply rich emollient/hydrating masks and creams; emphasize moisturizing massage; and recommend humectant moisturizers and sun protection.

How should a facial be adapted for oily skin?

Use deep-cleansing foaming cleansers, steam and extraction of comedones, an astringent toner, a clay/absorbing mask, and oil-free (non-comedogenic) hydration. Use BHA exfoliation to clear pores.

What is the key precaution for an acne-prone skin facial?

Avoid aggressive massage over inflamed/pustular areas (can spread infection), use disinfected tools and proper extraction technique, calm inflammation, and avoid comedogenic products. Severe or cystic acne should be referred to a dermatologist.

What are the three primary colors, and what does mixing them produce?

Red, yellow, and blue are the primary colors. They cannot be created by mixing, but combining them in pairs creates secondary colors, and all three together create brown/black (neutral).

What are complementary colors, and how are they used in corrective makeup?

Complementary colors are opposite on the color wheel (e.g., red/green, blue/orange, yellow/violet). They neutralize each other—e.g., green concealer cancels red blemishes; peach/orange cancels blue under-eye circles.

What is the difference between warm and cool undertones in skin?

Warm undertones have yellow, golden, or peach tones (veins look greenish). Cool undertones have blue, pink, or red tones (veins look bluish). Neutral is a mix of both.

What are the seven recognized face shapes, and which is considered ideal?

Oval, round, square, oblong (rectangle), triangle (pear), inverted triangle (heart), and diamond. The oval is considered the ideal shape; makeup is used to create the illusion of an oval.

What is the principle behind contouring and highlighting?

Highlighting with a lighter shade makes areas appear to project/come forward (emphasize), while contouring with a darker shade makes areas recede/appear smaller (minimize). This reshapes features toward an oval.

How is foundation matched to a client's skin?

Match foundation to the skin's undertone and depth by testing along the jawline/cheek in natural light; the correct shade disappears into the skin. Also match the foundation formula type to the skin type (oil-free for oily, hydrating for dry).

How should concealer shade be chosen relative to foundation?

Concealer for under-eye/highlighting is usually one to two shades lighter than the foundation; for covering blemishes it should match the foundation exactly, and color-correcting concealers use the complementary color of the flaw.

How is corrective makeup used for close-set versus wide-set eyes?

For close-set eyes, apply lighter/lighter shadow at the inner corner and darker shades outward to 'pull' eyes apart. For wide-set eyes, apply darker shadow toward the inner corners to bring them visually closer.

What is the difference between band (strip) lashes and individual (cluster) lashes?

Band lashes are a full strip applied along the entire lash line in one piece (temporary, easily removed). Individual lashes are small clusters/single lashes applied to add fullness in specific spots and can last longer.

What adhesive precaution must be taken when applying artificial lashes?

Perform a patch/sensitivity test for adhesive allergy beforehand, apply lash adhesive to the band (not the eye), let it become tacky before placing, and keep adhesive out of the eyes. Never apply over an eye infection.

What distinguishes permanent (epilation) hair removal from temporary (depilation) methods?

Permanent methods (epilation) remove hair from the root/destroy the follicle for lasting results—e.g., electrolysis, laser, waxing, tweezing, threading (tweezing/waxing remove from root but hair regrows). Temporary methods (depilation) remove hair at the skin surface—e.g., shaving, depilatory creams.

What is the only method legally recognized as truly permanent hair removal?

Electrolysis, which destroys the hair follicle's growth cells with an electric current applied through a fine probe. (Laser/photoepilation gives permanent hair reduction.)

What is a depilatory and how does it work?

A depilatory is a chemical product (usually with thioglycolate/alkaline agents) that dissolves the hair at the skin's surface, breaking down the protein structure. It is a temporary method and requires a patch test.

List key contraindications to hair removal (waxing) services.

Use of Accutane (isotretinoin) or topical Retin-A/exfoliating acids, recent chemical peels or microdermabrasion, sunburn, broken/irritated skin, varicose veins, rosacea, diabetes with poor healing, and over moles, warts, or skin tags.

Why is waxing contraindicated for clients on Accutane or who recently had a peel?

These thin and weaken the skin, so wax can tear or lift off live skin (causing abrasions, lifting, or scarring). Clients should typically wait about 6 months to a year after Accutane and several weeks after a peel.

Why must waxing be avoided directly over varicose veins?

Varicose veins are weakened, distended blood vessels; the pulling/trauma of waxing can damage them, cause bruising or rupture, and the area is fragile and prone to poor healing.

What is the main difference between soft wax and hard wax application?

Soft (strip) wax is applied thin and removed with a cloth/paper strip; it adheres to skin and hair, best for large areas (legs, arms). Hard (strip-less) wax is applied thick, hardens, and is removed by hand without a strip; it grips hair only, ideal for sensitive areas (face, bikini, underarms).

In which direction is wax applied and removed relative to hair growth?

Wax is applied in the same direction as hair growth and removed in the opposite direction (against the growth), pulling the strip quickly parallel and close to the skin while holding the skin taut.

What is threading and what is its advantage?

Threading is a temporary hair-removal method that uses twisted cotton thread rolled over the skin to lift and remove hair from the follicle. It is precise, gentle, removes rows of hair at once, and uses no chemicals—good for sensitive skin and brow shaping.

What is tweezing best used for, and a tip to reduce discomfort?

Tweezing is best for shaping eyebrows and removing stray hairs. Pull each hair in the direction of growth; tweezing after a warm towel or steam softens the follicle and reduces discomfort.

What are the three reference points used to measure and shape an eyebrow (start, arch, end)?

The brow should begin (inner corner) in line with the inside corner of the eye/side of the nose; the arch (highest point) falls about two-thirds out, aligned with the outer edge of the iris (looking forward); and the end aligns with a line from the nostril past the outer corner of the eye.

What is the general rule about which eyebrow hairs to remove when arching?

Remove hairs from underneath the brow line and between the brows to define the natural arch; avoid over-tweezing the top of the brow, which can distort the natural shape.