Cosmetology License Exam Haircoloring and Lightening Syllabus

Name three common uses of demi-permanent color.

Blending gray, refreshing faded ends/color, depositing tone after lightening (as a toner), and darkening hair without lift.

What is permanent (oxidative) haircolor and what two products are mixed?

A color that permanently changes the hair by combining an oxidative tint (containing aniline derivatives and ammonia) with hydrogen peroxide developer.

How does permanent oxidative color both lift and deposit in one process?

Ammonia raises the cuticle and helps peroxide lighten natural melanin, while small dye molecules oxidize, enlarge in the cortex, and become trapped to deposit new permanent color.

Why are aniline-derivative permanent tints required to have a patch test?

Aniline derivatives can cause allergic reactions/dermatitis in sensitive clients, so a predisposition (patch) test is required by law before each application.

What is henna, and what category of dye does it belong to?

Henna is a natural plant-derived dye (from Lawsonia) that coats and penetrates the hair shaft, depositing reddish color; it is a natural/vegetable dye.

Why is henna buildup a problem for future chemical services?

Henna coats the shaft and can cause uneven penetration, blocking penetration of other colors and reacting unpredictably with chemicals — it can prevent proper perming/coloring.

What are metallic (gradual) dyes and why are they unsafe with professional chemicals?

Dyes containing metal salts (lead, silver, copper) that gradually coat hair. They react dangerously (heat, breakage, discoloration, smoking) with peroxide and perm chemicals, so professional services should not be done over them.

What is a compound dye?

A combination of a metallic salt and a vegetable (henna) dye; it coats the hair and is generally incompatible with professional oxidative services.

What test detects the presence of metallic salts before a chemical service?

The metallic salt (1:20) test: mix 1 oz 20-volume peroxide with 20 drops of 28% ammonia, soak a hair strand 30 minutes, and observe the reaction (fading, lightening, breakage, or no change).

What is the function of hydrogen peroxide developer in haircolor?

It is the oxidizing agent that supplies oxygen to develop/oxidize the dye molecules and to lift natural pigment; its volume controls the amount of lift.

What does 10-volume developer do?

Provides minimal to no lift — used for deposit-only color, darkening, or toning where you want maximum deposit and little lightening.

What does 20-volume developer provide?

Standard developer giving about one to two levels of lift; commonly used for gray coverage and on-level deposit with some lift.

How many levels of lift do 30-volume and 40-volume developers provide?

30-volume lifts about three levels; 40-volume lifts about four levels (maximum lift) and is the strongest standard developer.

What is the percentage of hydrogen peroxide in 20-volume developer?

20-volume equals 6% hydrogen peroxide (10 vol = 3%, 30 vol = 9%, 40 vol = 12%).

What is a lightener (bleach) and what does it do to melanin?

A chemical that, when mixed with developer, oxidizes and diffuses (decolorizes) the natural melanin pigment in the cortex, lightening the hair.

What are the (up to) 10 stages of decolorization in order from darkest to lightest?

Black, brown, red, red-gold, gold, yellow-gold, yellow, pale yellow (the desired stage for most blondes) — moving through warm undertones as melanin is dissolved.

To what stage should hair be pre-lightened before applying a pale blonde toner, and why?

To pale yellow; lifting to pale yellow removes enough warm pigment so the toner produces a true, clean blonde without unwanted gold or orange showing through.

What is the difference between on-scalp and off-scalp lighteners?

On-scalp lighteners are gentle enough to apply directly to the scalp (e.g., oil/cream bleach); off-scalp (powder/quick) lighteners are stronger, must not touch the scalp, and are used for foil/highlighting work.

Why must powder (off-scalp) lighteners not be applied directly to the scalp?

They are fast and strong, can dry out, and can irritate or burn the scalp; they are formulated only for off-the-scalp techniques like foils.

What is the purpose of activators (boosters) added to lighteners?

Persulfate-based powders added to increase lightening speed and lifting power for greater decolorization.

What is a toner and on what type of hair is it used?

A demi- or semi-permanent product used to add delicate pale/fashion shades; applied to pre-lightened hair (lifted to the proper pale stage) to neutralize unwanted tones and add the desired tone.

What is single-process haircoloring?

A coloring technique that lightens and/or deposits color in a single application (e.g., permanent oxidative tint), without pre-lightening as a separate step.

How is a single-process virgin (first-time) lighter result applied, and where do you start?

Apply color/lightener first to the mid-shaft area (about 1/2 inch off the scalp through the ends), then last to the scalp area and ends, because scalp heat speeds processing — staging it gives an even result.

What is double-process (two-step) haircoloring?

A technique in which hair is first pre-lightened (decolorized) and then a second application of toner or color is applied to deposit the desired shade.

When is double-process coloring necessary?

When achieving pale blonde or bright fashion shades that are lighter or cleaner than a single oxidative color can achieve in one step — the hair must be pre-lightened, then toned.

What is highlighting versus lowlighting?

Highlighting lightens select strands lighter than the natural/base color; lowlighting (reverse highlighting) deposits darker strands to add depth and dimension.

Name three common highlighting techniques.

Foil (slicing or weaving strands onto foil), cap (pulling strands through a perforated cap with a hook), and balayage/free-hand painting.

What is balayage?

A free-hand painting technique where lightener is hand-applied to the surface of selected strands for a soft, natural, sun-kissed graduated effect.

What is a single-process color retouch and where is color applied?

Re-coloring only the new growth (regrowth) at the scalp to match previously colored hair; color is applied only to the new growth to avoid overlapping and banding.

Why should you avoid overlapping color/lightener onto previously treated hair during a retouch?

Overlapping causes lines of demarcation, banding, breakage, and uneven color/over-processing on the already-treated hair.

What does it mean to refresh color, and what product is commonly used?

Reviving faded color on the mid-lengths and ends, often with a demi-permanent color or color-depositing glaze applied for the last few minutes of a retouch service.

What is corrective coloring?

The process of correcting unwanted tone, level, buildup, or banding to restore hair to a desired, even result — often the most challenging coloring service.

What is a dye/color remover and what are the two main types?

A product that removes artificial pigment from hair. Oxidative removers (with lightener) strip both natural and artificial color; reductive (sulfonated) removers shrink/remove only artificial dye molecules without much natural lift.

What is the purpose and procedure of a patch (predisposition) test?

To detect allergy to aniline derivatives. Apply a small amount of the tint behind the ear or inner elbow 24-48 hours before service; redness, itching, or swelling indicates a positive (allergic) reaction and the service must not be performed.

What is a strand test and what does it determine?

Applying the color/lightener formula to a small section of hair to determine processing time, the final color result, and the hair's reaction before doing the whole head.

What is a release statement and what does it (and client records) accomplish?

A form the client signs acknowledging the service and its risks (often required by insurance). Client records document formulas, timing, and results for safe, consistent repeat services.

What is a color filler and what two purposes does it serve?

A product applied before color to (1) equalize porosity for even color absorption and (2) deposit a base/missing primary color (often warmth) to prevent off-tone results, especially on porous or pre-lightened hair.

What causes banding in haircolor and how is it prevented?

Banding (uneven stripes of color/level) is caused by overlapping product, uneven application, or porosity differences. It is prevented by applying only to new growth on retouches and equalizing porosity with a filler.

What causes haircolor to fade, and name two ways to minimize it?

Fading is caused by porosity, sun/UV exposure, harsh shampoos, and washing too often. Minimize with color-safe sulfate-free shampoos, UV protection, and refreshing/glossing the color.

What is a tint back (going back to natural/darker) and why is filling important?

Coloring previously lightened hair back to a darker natural-looking shade. A filler is essential first because lightened hair lacks warm undertones, and without replacing them the result turns dull, ashy, or green.

How do you remove product buildup/color buildup before recoloring, and why?

Use a clarifying shampoo or a dye/color remover to strip accumulated artificial pigment and residue, ensuring even porosity and predictable new-color absorption.

What is pre-softening and when is it used?

Applying product (e.g., a milder color or developer) to resistant, tightly cuticled gray hair before the color application to open the cuticle so the formula can penetrate for full coverage.