Cosmetology License Exam Nail Care and Nail Disorders Syllabus

What is onychauxis (hypertrophy)?

An abnormal thickening of the nail plate, usually caused by injury, infection, or internal imbalance.

What is onychatrophia (atrophy)?

The wasting away or shrinking of the nail; it becomes smaller and may fall off.

What are pterygium nails?

Abnormal forward growth of living skin (eponychium or hyponychium) that adheres to the nail plate; should not be cut - refer if severe.

What does the term 'onycho-' refer to, and '-osis' versus '-itis'?

'Onycho-' refers to the nail; '-osis' denotes a condition/disease, '-itis' denotes inflammation.

What is onychomycosis (tinea unguium) and can it be serviced?

A contagious fungal infection of the nail (often whitish/yellow patches or crumbling); it is a disease and must be referred - do not service.

What is onychia versus paronychia?

Onychia is inflammation of the nail matrix with pus/shedding; paronychia is a bacterial infection of the tissue around the nail. Both are infections - refer to a physician.

What is an ingrown nail (onychocryptosis), and which form can be serviced?

Nail growing into the sidewall/flesh; if not infected it can be trimmed and serviced, but if red, swollen, or infected it must be referred.

What is pyogenic granuloma in relation to nails?

Severe inflammation with a lump of red tissue growing from the nail bed to the plate; a medical condition requiring referral.

What does a greenish-black discoloration under an artificial nail usually indicate?

A bacterial infection (often pseudomonas), commonly from moisture trapped under a lifted enhancement; service should be stopped and the client referred if it does not clear.

What is the difference between a disinfectant and an antiseptic?

A disinfectant kills/destroys most microorganisms on nonliving surfaces (tools/implements); an antiseptic is milder and used to reduce microbes on living skin.

What EPA classification of disinfectant must be used on multiuse manicuring implements, and what property must it have?

An EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant that is bactericidal, virucidal, and fungicidal.

What is the correct procedure before immersing implements in disinfectant solution?

Clean (wash) implements with soap and water to remove debris first, then fully immerse in disinfectant for the manufacturer's required contact time.

How should single-use (porous/disposable) items such as nail files, buffers, and orangewood sticks be handled?

They cannot be disinfected and must be discarded after one client.

What does the abrasive 'grit' number on a nail file indicate?

The number of abrasive particles per square inch - a lower grit (e.g., 80-100) is coarser/more aggressive, a higher grit (240+) is finer/gentler.

List the five basic nail shapes used in manicuring.

Square, squoval (square-oval / squared off oval), round, oval, and pointed (almond).

Which nail shape is generally recommended as the strongest and most durable for most clients?

Squoval - it has the strength of the square with the softer look of the oval.

In a basic manicure, in which direction should you file the natural nail and why?

File from the outer corner toward the center (one direction, not back-and-forth/sawing) to avoid splitting or weakening the nail.

What is the proper order of a basic manicure procedure (key steps)?

Remove old polish, shape/file nails, soak fingertips, push back cuticles, clean under free edge, apply cuticle remover/oil, massage hand and arm, then base coat, color, top coat.

Why should you never cut the living cuticle (eponychium) during a manicure?

It can cause bleeding, break the protective seal, and lead to infection; only loose dead cuticle on the plate should be removed.

What is the primary purpose of hand and arm massage during a manicure?

To increase circulation, relax the client, and improve the appearance/condition of the skin.

Name the main massage movement that is light stroking/gliding and is used to begin and end a massage.

Effleurage - a light, slow, continuous stroking movement.

What massage movement involves kneading by lifting, squeezing, and pressing tissue?

Petrissage (kneading).

What massage movement uses deep rubbing or rolling to increase circulation, and which uses light tapping?

Friction is deep rubbing/rolling; tapotement (percussion) is light tapping/slapping.

What is the key safety concern about massaging a client's leg during a pedicure?

Avoid vigorous deep massage on the lower leg to prevent dislodging a possible blood clot; use lighter pressure and refer clients with circulatory conditions/diabetes.

In what direction should toenails be cut and shaped during a pedicure, and why?

Cut straight across (squared off), slightly rounded at corners, to help prevent ingrown toenails.

What tool is used to smooth and reduce thickened skin/calluses on the feet, and what must NOT be used?

A foot file/paddle or curette for callus reduction; a credo blade/razor-type callus shaver is prohibited in many states because it can cut the skin.

Why is foot bath (basin) disinfection especially critical in pedicures?

Whirlpool/pipe-free foot spas can harbor bacteria (e.g., mycobacteria) that cause serious skin infections; they must be cleaned and disinfected after every client per protocol.

What is a paraffin wax treatment and its main benefit?

Dipping hands/feet in warm melted paraffin wax to trap heat and moisture, softening skin, soothing joints, and improving circulation.

Why should paraffin wax never be reused between clients or applied over broken skin?

To prevent cross-contamination/infection; the wax that touches the client should be discarded, not returned to the bath, and not used on cuts or rashes.

What is a nail tip and what is the well of a tip?

A plastic/nylon/acetate appliance glued to the natural nail to add length; the well is the indented contact area that adheres to the natural nail plate.

What is the rule about how much of the natural nail a tip's well should cover?

A nail tip should never cover more than one-half (or one-third per some boards) of the natural nail plate to maintain strength.

What is a nail wrap and name two common wrap materials.

A method of reinforcing or repairing the nail by adhering a fabric over the nail plate; common materials are silk, linen, and fiberglass.

In monomer liquid and polymer powder (acrylic) enhancements, what chemical reaction joins them and what is it called?

Polymerization (curing) - the liquid monomer and powder polymer react with an initiator to harden into the enhancement.

What is 'mix ratio' in acrylic application and why does it matter?

The proportion of monomer liquid to polymer powder picked up in the bead; a correct (medium) mix ratio ensures proper set, strength, and durability.

How are UV/LED gel enhancements hardened, and what is this process called?

They are cured (polymerized) by exposure to UV or LED light in a curing lamp, not by air drying.

What is the sticky surface left on gel after curing called, and how is it removed?

The inhibition (tacky/dispersion) layer; it is wiped off with a lint-free pad and cleanser (alcohol/gel cleanser).

What is the difference between a hard gel and a soak-off (soft) gel for removal?

Hard gels must be filed/buffed off (cannot be dissolved); soak-off gels can be removed by soaking in acetone.

What solvent is used to remove acrylic (and soak-off gel) enhancements?

Acetone - the enhancements are soaked until softened, then gently removed.

What is a 'fill' (rebalance/maintenance) and how often is it typically needed?

Reapplying product to the new growth area near the cuticle to maintain the enhancement, usually every 2-3 weeks as the natural nail grows out.

Why should lifted or loose enhancements be repaired or removed promptly?

Gaps allow moisture and microbes to become trapped between the enhancement and natural nail, causing bacterial/fungal infection (e.g., green discoloration).

What is MMA (methyl methacrylate) and why is its use on nails banned/discouraged?

A cheap monomer not approved for nails; it bonds too hard, doesn't soak off easily, can cause severe damage to the natural nail and skin, and is banned in many states. EMA (ethyl methacrylate) is the safer approved alternative.

What is overexposure in nail services and how is it caused?

Developing a sensitivity/allergy from repeated or prolonged contact with a product (especially uncured gel/monomer on skin); it can cause contact dermatitis, itching, and lifting.

List three key safety practices to reduce overexposure and inhalation of nail product vapors/dust.

Use proper ventilation/local exhaust, wear a dust mask and gloves, avoid skin contact with uncured product, keep products capped, and never eat in the work area.