Cosmetology License Exam Hair Care: Shampooing, Cutting, and Styling Syllabus

What is the main cleansing ingredient (surfactant) in shampoo, and how does it work?

A surfactant (base detergent/wetting agent) such as sodium lauryl sulfate; it has a hydrophilic (water-attracting) head and a lipophilic/hydrophobic (oil-attracting) tail that surrounds and lifts away oil and dirt so they rinse away with water.

What is the primary purpose of a conditioner, and what is the main type used to coat the cuticle?

To restore moisture, strength, and manageability and to close the cuticle; surface (instant) conditioners coat the cuticle, while protein/substantive conditioners penetrate the cortex to rebuild it.

What does a clarifying shampoo do?

It contains an active chelating agent that binds to and removes product buildup, minerals, and residue from the hair.

What is the difference between hard water and soft water in salon practice?

Hard water contains minerals (calcium and magnesium) that reduce lather and can leave deposits; soft water contains few minerals, rinses easily, and lathers well—soft water is preferred for shampooing.

What is the water cycle, and why is its concept relevant to understanding water supply for the salon?

The water cycle is the continuous movement of water through evaporation, condensation, and precipitation; it explains why naturally collected water (e.g., rain) is soft, while ground water picks up minerals to become hard.

What is draping, and what is its purpose during salon services?

Draping is properly covering and protecting the client with a cape and towels; it protects the client's skin and clothing from water, hair clippings, and chemicals.

How does draping differ for a wet/shampoo service versus a chemical service?

For a wet service, a towel is placed under the cape against the neck (cape over the towel) to absorb water; for a chemical service, a towel is placed under the cape AND a second towel over the cape, secured to prevent chemicals from contacting skin/clothing.

What is scalp massage and what is its primary benefit?

A scalp massage is the systematic manipulation of the scalp by rubbing, kneading, and tapping; it relaxes the client and stimulates blood circulation to the scalp.

What is the difference between a scalp treatment for dry scalp/hair versus oily scalp/hair?

Dry scalp/hair treatments use moisturizing and emollient products to add oil/moisture; oily scalp/hair treatments use normalizing/astringent products and increased massage to reduce excess sebum.

When should a scalp treatment NOT be given (contraindication)?

When the scalp shows signs of an infectious disease, abrasions, or open sores/lesions.

What is the recommended client positioning for a haircut to ensure an even, balanced result?

The client should sit straight with the head upright (not tilted), legs uncrossed, and feet flat on the floor or footrest; the stylist works at eye level.

What are the three parts of the three-part service (client consultation) procedure?

The pre-service (greeting/consultation/preparation), the service itself, and the post-service (rebooking, recommending products, cleanup).

What are the four key reference points on the head used to establish design lines?

The apex (highest point), the four corners, the parietal ridge (crest/widest area), and the occipital bone (back of the head). The apex is the highest point of the head.

What is the parietal ridge and why is it important in haircutting?

The parietal ridge is the widest area of the head, also called the crest or 'hatband'—where the head starts to curve away from the top; it separates the interior (top) from the exterior (sides/back).

What is the difference between the nape, the crown, and the occipital area of the head?

The nape is the back of the neck (below the hairline); the crown is the area at/near the apex on top; the occipital is the bone that protrudes at the back base of the skull.

In haircutting, what is a section (parting) versus a subsection?

A section is one of the larger working areas the head is divided into to manage hair; a subsection is a smaller partition within a section that is the basis for each cutting panel.

What are the three types of cutting lines (guidelines) used in haircutting?

Horizontal lines (build weight, create a blunt/one-length cut), vertical lines (remove weight, create layers), and diagonal lines (used for beveling and blending, e.g., stacking or face-framing).

What is elevation in haircutting, and what does 0-degree versus 90-degree elevation produce?

Elevation is the angle the hair is held (lifted) from the head when cutting; 0 degrees (no elevation) creates a blunt one-length cut, and 90 degrees creates a uniform layered cut.

What elevation creates a layered (graduated weight buildup) effect versus increased-layer look, and what is a stationary vs traveling guideline?

45-degree elevation creates graduation (stacking/weight buildup); elevations above 90 degrees increase layering. A stationary guideline does not move (hair is over-directed to it), while a traveling (mobile) guideline moves as you work.

What is over-direction in haircutting and what does it create?

Over-direction is combing hair away from its natural falling position (toward a stationary guide) before cutting; it creates length increases and is used to build weight or create longer layers in specific areas.

Name the four basic haircuts and their defining characteristic.

Blunt (0 elevation, one length); Graduated (45 elevation, stacked/wedge with weight buildup); Layered (90 elevation, even/uniform layers); and Long-layered/Increased-layer (180 elevation, shortest on top, longest at perimeter).

What is a blunt (one-length) haircut also called, and at what elevation is it cut?

Also called a zero-elevation, one-length, bob, or solid-form cut; it is cut at 0 degrees elevation with all ends falling to one level.

List the main haircutting tools and the primary use of each.

Haircutting shears (blunt cuts); thinning/texturizing shears (remove bulk without removing length); clippers (close/short cuts and tapering); a razor (softened, tapered ends); plus combs and sectioning clips.

What is the difference between slithering (effilating) and point cutting techniques?

Slithering (effilating) thins the hair to graduated lengths with a sliding shear motion to reduce bulk; point cutting (notching) is cutting into the ends of the hair tips at an angle to texturize and soften the perimeter.

What is the difference between cutting hair 'on the fingers' versus 'over the comb'?

Cutting on the fingers means the hair is held between the fingers and cut to a guide along the fingers; cutting over the comb (shear-over-comb/clipper-over-comb) uses the comb as the guide to cut very short hair close to the scalp, tapering toward the nape.

What are the three parts (sections) of a pin curl?

The base (the stationary panel attached to the scalp), the stem (between base and first arc, determines amount of movement), and the circle (the loop that forms the curl/size of the wave).

In pin curls, what is the difference between a no-stem, half-stem, and full-stem curl?

A no-stem curl is placed directly on its base for the tightest, longest-lasting curl with least mobility; a half-stem curl permits medium movement; a full-stem curl gives the most mobility and is placed off the base.

What is finger waving, and what is the position used to direct ridges?

Finger waving is shaping and molding wet hair (using waving lotion) into S-shaped waves with the fingers and a comb; ridges and hollows are formed by combing the hair in alternating directions (a shaping movement) and holding with the fingers.

In roller setting, how does roller base size relate to volume, and what are on-base, half-base, and off-base?

On-base (full base, roller sits on its own base, rolled with the strand held at 45 degrees over the base) gives the most volume/lift; half-base gives medium volume; off-base (roller sits below its base) gives the least volume. One roller equals about one full turn/one wave.

In blow-dry/round-brush styling, what does the round brush diameter control, and how do you add volume at the base?

A larger-diameter round brush creates a larger, looser curl/wave (smaller brush = tighter curl); to add volume, direct heat at the base while holding the hair up and out (over-directed) from the scalp.

What is the difference between a curling iron and a flat iron, and how does barrel size affect the curl?

A curling (thermal) iron uses a round barrel to create curls and waves; a flat iron uses two flat heated plates to smooth/straighten (or curl) hair. A smaller curling-iron barrel produces a tighter curl, a larger barrel a looser curl.

What is hair pressing (silking), and what are the three degrees of pressing?

Hair pressing temporarily straightens overly curly hair using a heated metal pressing comb. The three degrees are soft press (removes about 50–60% of curl, one pass), medium press (60–75%, applied with slightly more pressure/two passes), and hard press (100%, applied twice on each side or with a double press).

What safety practice is essential when using metal thermal implements (pressing combs, thermal irons) on hair?

Always test the temperature on a tissue/cloth (or fabric) before use to prevent scorching or burning the hair, and never overheat—excess heat can cause hair breakage; metal must be properly cleaned/conditioned (carbon removed) and kept off the scalp/skin to avoid burns.

What is the main difference between human hair and synthetic hair used in wigs and extensions?

Human hair can be chemically treated, colored, and heat-styled like natural hair and is identified by a burn test (smells like burning hair, burns slowly); synthetic hair cannot tolerate high heat or chemical services, holds its style without re-setting, and on a burn test melts/balls up (or self-extinguishes) with a chemical/plastic smell.

What is a quick test to distinguish human hair from synthetic hair?

The match (burn) test: human hair burns slowly with the smell of burning protein and leaves ash; synthetic hair flares/melts or self-extinguishes, often smelling like burning plastic and forming a hard bead.

What are the two basic categories of wig construction by cap type?

Cap wigs (constructed with an elasticized mesh-fiber base/foundation) and capless (caped/wefted) wigs, which are machine-made with rows of wefts sewn to strips, are more open/lighter, and the most common, ready-to-wear type.

What is the difference between a hand-tied wig and a machine-made wig?

A hand-tied (hand-knotted) wig has hair individually knotted into a mesh base by hand, allowing hair to move freely in any direction for the most natural look (most expensive); a machine-made wig has wefts sewn by machine in rows, is less expensive, durable, and bounces back into shape after washing.

How do you measure a client for a wig?

Take circumference measurements around the head (from front hairline around the nape and back), plus front-to-nape (forehead to nape) and ear-to-ear measurements, to ensure a proper fit before ordering.

How should a human-hair wig versus a synthetic wig be cleaned?

Human-hair wigs are cleaned with regular shampoo and conditioner (or dry-cleaned) and must be re-set/styled after washing; synthetic wigs are cleaned with a specially formulated/synthetic wig shampoo (cool water) and retain their style after washing without re-setting.

What is the difference between a wig and a hairpiece/integration?

A wig covers the entire head (100% of the hair); a hairpiece (toupee, fall, or integration piece) covers only part of the head and is attached to existing hair to add length, volume, or cover specific areas.

Name three common hair extension attachment methods.

Bonding (attaching wefts to the base of the natural hair with a special adhesive); fusion (extensions bonded to small sections of the client's hair with a heat-activated keratin/glue tip); and track-and-sew (sew-in) where extensions are sewn onto on-the-scalp cornrow braids (tracks).

What is the track-and-sew (sew-in/weave) extension method?

The natural hair is braided into cornrow 'tracks' along the scalp, and hair wefts are sewn onto those tracks with a needle and thread; no heat or adhesive contacts the hair, making it a popular long-lasting method.